"Reflections"

by Clare Taylor with permission (first published by Life & Style in May 2008).

Off again, dear?
In search of a field of stars?

A pilgrim is, originally, a stranger, someone from abroad; a wanderer, travelling from place to place. I met with a group last weekend at the Bergtheil Museum* in Westville and listened to their stories. The Bergtheil was a good venue for us, being the home of one of the first settlers who came to the area from Bremen in northern Germany in the 1840s. He and a small band of mostly artisans were drawn there by the promise of land that, Johannes Bergtheil had assured them, would grow cotton and rescue them from the depression most of Europe was bogged down in. So they were pilgrims too.

But the pilgrims whose stories I had gone to hear had all travelled long distances on foot along the various centuries-old routes, known as the Caminos, that converge in northwest Spain at Santiago de Compostela - Saint James of the field of stars. Since early medieval times, his shrine has drawn people from afar. Seven of the routes begin in France; one comes in from Portugal and the others from within Spain. To complete a route used to be an act of religious devotion but, these days, motives vary from one pilgrim to another. Some walk to enjoy the countryside in a slow, old fashioned way - the magnificent Portuguese coast or Spain's remote and arid heartland. Others eat their way along a route - the one west from the Pyrenees along Spain's north coast is particularly good for seafood and takes you through prime wine lands. There are those whose focus is cultural, to see the old towns and churches that have developed down the ages to cater largely for the flow of pilgrims.

Whole families go to pass their annual holidays in a different way. Old ladies, not pressed for time, walk to prove the world's still theirs. Young men set off in search of something - they're not sure what - that escaped them back home in the workplace.

"You start off," Ernesto explained to me on Saturday, "thinking you're the greatest and that of course you can easily do it. But that's just ego and it quickly fades. What comes through in its place is a marvellous sense of camaraderie with all the other walkers."

You don't have to do an entire journey. It's only the last 100 kilometres that has to be done to qualify you, as it were, as a pilgrim. For the rest you can dip in and dip out of the path, savouring the best bits or resting up in a hotel until you're ready to proceed. But most people stick to the route. Most are there for some inner reason, to prove something to themselves.

If you register as an official pilgrim you receive a passport which gives you access to the special refuges, or albergues, all along the way. These are full of character but not all plush. The advice from Sylvia, who was leading Saturday's workshop, was that, if you're a bit of a prissy miss, best leave that side of you at home. But prissiness, like ego, doesn't stand much chance of surviving in the face of the reality of walking 20 to 25 kilometres each and every day for several weeks - which is how most pilgrims do it.

A Scottish teacher, neither young nor slim, as she emphasised herself, explained it this way: The route divides itself into three parts. For the first part you're concerned with physical things - how to stop your pack rubbing your shoulder and the blisters on your heels, worrying whether you're up to it. The second part is spent in a mental battle wrestling with questions (Why ever did I come here? Now I'm halfway why not stop?) and trying to stay focused. Then comes the final third when you know that you can do it and that you won't give up. In this phase, which she described as spiritual, you have time to think, to go inward and learn things about yourself you can't see in normal daily life.

Do you think you're a would-be pilgrim? Because if so the Confraternity of St James of SA will help you organise your trip, from advising on reading material, air routes and accommodation to assisting with your pack. Sylvia says the most important purchase is a kitchen scale to weigh absolutely everything from your soap powder to your hat. She keeps her pack to below five kilos including a silk liner to sleep in (she only walks in summer), complete change of clothing, torch and camera. To watch her unpack is like watching some amazing conjuring trick. But then there's more than a little magic in these individual journeys to that distant field of stars.

*Phone 031 203 7107 for visiting times or to book a conference room.

**For information contact Sylvia on 031 267 2059, 083 474 808, email nilsens@mweb.co.za

Clare and Rory Wilson cycled over 1500km in 2006 on the Camino Frances. Last year in September they returned to Santiago de Compostela to cycle the return journey.

Here is Clare's account:
We started our 2006 Camino from Juillac in France, a tiny village in Limousin just south of Limoges. My sister and her husband are renovating a very small house there. It seemed right to leave from a 'home' as per tradition. Our first stamp in our credential was 85 km further west at Perigueux.

We started our 2007 Return Journey (obviously) at Santiago de Compostela and ended at Pamplona. The two journeys were so similar and yet so different. Although our flights were booked back from Pamplona, there was a greater sense of cycling into the Unknown, a sense of listening to our own inner voices more. So much easier to access that inner voice of what is one's 'own pace' when cycling against the tide. The pressure to conform to the masses is so huge. What was remarkable too was the way we could feel the mood of the pilgrims change each night as we backtracked towards their start. Our first night out from Santiago was of course spent with pilgrims who would be completing their journey the next day or so and there were all the mixed feelings that go with that. As we travelled backwards we met those for whom the journey felt endless as they despaired of ever getting there, or others who were in a timelessness that pleased them deeply. The honeymoon was definitely over for some pilgrims we met at Burgos. In Pamplona there were those who were starting off the next day or had done so from Roncevalles a day or two before. A bitter/sweet juxtaposition of our feelings and theirs. Throughout the return journey, as cyclists, we were aware of being treated more like people rather than some lesser life form by the walking pilgrims. (I know that the walking pilgrims feel the same in reverse). It was as if by seeing that we were cycling the other way pilgrims realised we were 'serious' pilgrims after all and not just on some exercise jaunt or whatever catch-all category we had been assigned to. A memory remains of a grey haired man glancing at us as we approached each other along parallel pathways. He then suddenly registered that we were Returning Pilgrims and in the slowest and mostly gentlemanly of gestures he lifted his hat and bowed his head to us.

Labels: camino, cycle

During May and June 2007 Margi Biggs walked from St Jean Pied du Port to Santiago on her first Camino.

She writes: As a sedentary person, I was terrified of doing something so physically demanding. But something kept telling me to do the Camino. I wasn't very fit and it was really tough. At times we were walking through thick, sticky mud that curled into my shoes and at times it was freezing cold. But it was also incredibly beautiful. On the whole it taught me that I can do anything if I really want to. I trained as much as possible before I left. I walked as much as I could, and even signed up at the gym. The hard work paid off and I lost about 10kg. My body needs to walk now. I also don't feel the need to rush so much anymore. On the Camino all you have to do is walk, but you can't live on the Camino forever. It's a journey you take and the journey continues, and you bring what you can into your normal life. I enjoyed almost everything about the journey. My Camino was characterized by wonderful people, beautiful scenery and spiritual growth. I took my time and completed the 800kms in 48 days.

Margi braved the elements for the street children of South Africa, as well as for StreetSmart, a charity organization that raises funds for these children. NOW she has another idea which she has already put into action:

What did disturb me was the amount of litter left by other Pilgrims over the years. So I have decided to do something about it. I thought a Camino Spring Clean would be in order. What I plan is, to do a PR campaign to bring the problem to the minds of those who are still planning to walk. Then to find sponsors to make up bio-degradable bags, overprinted with a message in 8 languages inviting Pilgrims to fill the bag with litter along their way and to put the bag into the efficient Spanish garbage system. I am also hoping to find sponsors to print posters with an anti-litter message which could be displayed in Refugio's all along the route. I have the committed assistance on Gordon Bell who lives on the Camino near Villacha, who will use his car to deliver the material along the way during June. He will also receive any material we need to ship.

Then I will return to Spain to do a week of litter collection myself. I thought to start in Burgos. This will be useful not only to clean the Way but also for PR purposes to spread the word to those still heading to the Camino.

I am inviting members of the Confraternities from around the world to join me if they can, or to help in any way with the project.
As I see it we need the following:

• Press release writing skills
• Translation Skills
• Garbage Gloves
• Bag
• Posters to be printed

Transport for material from South Africa to Spain (if they are printed here, or from wherever).

Pilgrims to "walk the talk" in Spain 25 June to 02 July between Burgos and Leon.

If any members of the confraternity can help, please ask them to contact me on my personal email address: margi AT eqweb.co.za (sub @ for AT)

LATEST NEWS: Camino Clean-Up Project - first team is to clean the sector between Léon and Burgos during May/June 2008. This initiative has already developed into an international event.

Congratulations Margi!

Labels: camino, clean up, spring clean

OUR EXPERIENCES ON THE CAMINO:

by Marietjie Marais

About a year ago I was reading an article about the Camino and, thinking I would love to walk this pilgrimage, I received a phone call from my dear friend Sue. She commented that following the two hip operations her husband had recently had, they would most probably never be able to walk the Camino. Was this just coincidence, or was it meant to be? We decided it was the latter. After many letters, phone calls, planning and training the two of us finally left for Portugal early in September 2007. We chose the Portuguese Way because it is not as busy as the more popular French Camino, and it is also not such a long pilgrimage. This suited us as three weeks away from husbands, home and hearth was what we could allow ourselves.
Our flight took us via Madrid to Lisbon from where we travelled to Porto by train. Neither of us can speak Portuguese (or Spanish), except for the very basic phrases like good morning, please and thank you. It was my first experience of carrying a backpack and, although it weighed a mere seven kilograms, it took some getting used to. Thus, with lots of laughter and gesticulation, we reached our pensao in Porto by late afternoon - tired but happy that the adventure had started. For three days we explored the city, admired the beautiful azulejos (tiles) and got used to the heat. On the morning we started our pilgrimage we asked God to take care of us and with a song in our hearts we set off, following the yellow arrows …

The first day's walking was rather difficult - finding a walking pace that suited both, settling the backpacks comfortably and generally getting into the stride of things. We actually settled in so well that we missed the turn-off to Vilar do Pinheiro and walked and extra five or six kilometres! The first of many "Good Samaritans" appeared as if on order. A very helpful couple took under their wings, drove us back to Vilar and deposited us on the doorstep of the Residencial Santa Marinha.
The second day took us through beautiful scenic countryside, across lovely old stone bridges, past clear steams and cool fountains. In Rates we stayed in the pilgrim hostel for the first time and met up with pilgrims from all over the world. We felt like pros and by the third day we had a comfortable routine and could manage the day's walking quite easily. Each day had its own highlights and sometimes its own challenges, but God never failed us - He was there helping us along whenever the road became difficult or the heat became unbearable. He sent help when we got lost, and He never failed in providing a hot shower and a soft bed.

We met some very special people along the way. There were Gep and Gerda Maritz from Somerset West - such fun meeting fellow-South Africans and walking with them for half a day. Some of the pilgrims come and go and do not make a lasting impression, but sharing special moments in quiet churches, or walking together through woodland in the beauty of the early morning creates a very special bond with some of these friends. It was wonderful the way people helped each other, caring and sharing and generally looking out for other pilgrims.
Before we knew it we reached Santiago de Compostela. What a highlight that was - standing in the pilgrim office, receiving our certificates of completion, our Compostelas, and then entering the cathedral - a very emotional moment. We attended the pilgrim's mass with our special friends the next day. Listening to the heavenly music, sharing a blessing with friends and taking mass with fellow Christians was truly the highlight of these twelve days. We bade farewell too to our friends after the mass, while still inside the cathedral, promising to keep in touch ...

In "A pilgrim's guide to the Camino Portugués" the author, John Brierley, advises pilgrims, when they enter the cathedral in Santiago to "take time to just arrive". That is what we felt when we got home - we had to "take time to arrive". I think it is important to take time to rethink your experiences along the Camino, reread your pilgrim's guide, edit your photographs, or have your films developed and create a photo journal of your Camino. Tell someone special about your Camino and store away your memories safely before you tackle your daily routine and join the rat race again. People often ask me what it means to me to have walked the Camino. It's not that easy a question to answer, because it has different answers at different times. In a nutshell I would say that walking the Camino has taught me a lot about myself; it was a physical challenge that I'm proud to have done; it strengthened a wonderful friendship; it was emotionally and spiritually very enriching and it was a huge adventure.

Labels: camino, Portugues

by Sue and Marietjie

• Training is important - you should be able to comfortably walk at least 15-20 km with your pack before you leave
• Ordinary running shoes are not the best option - get yourself a good pair of outdoor shoes with multi-terrain soles and do your training with them - but be careful, boots may be too stiff and too heavy
• Food is readily available all along the way, but power snacks like nuts and raisins keep the energy levels up - so take these along
• Food and drink are very affordable and of good quality
• You don't have to carry your whole water supply for the day with you as there are lots of potable water on the route and even the smallest little café sells bottled water
• The pilgrims' hostels on this Camino are, as far as we could tell, all very good - clean, well-equipped and well looked after
• Hostels and/or other accommodation are available within easy "day-walk" distances
• The popular "Guide to the Camino Portugués" by John Brierley needs updating - some of the bus, train and metro timetables have changed and some have been discontinued - verify the information, especially if you are on a tight schedule (editor's note: check for John's latest updates on his website: www.caminoguides.com)
• Day temperatures were high (around 30°C) but evenings were mild, and we had no rain along the way when we walked in September 2007
• Go with an open mind and enjoy every minute

Labels: camino, Portugues

High-intensity walking helps elderly adults keep their blood pressure in check, maintain thigh muscle strength, and increase their exercise capacity, according to results of a study published in the Mayo Clinic Proceedings.

"The rapid growth in the elderly population in many countries has highlighted the importance of exercise training to decrease the likelihood of disability and age-associated disease, promote independence, and enhance quality of life," Dr. Hiroshi Nose and colleagues from Shinshu University Graduate School of Medicine, Matsumoto, Japan, write.

Moderately paced walking (about 6 kilometres or 3.7 miles per hour) is thought to protect against disability and is recommended for middle-aged and older people. However, such walking may not be intense enough to improve aerobic exercise capacity.

To address this issue, the researchers randomly assigned 60 older men and 186 older women to one of three groups: no walking training, moderate-intensity walking training, and high-intensity walking training. The groups were studied for 5 months.

Patients who engaged in high-intensity walking, which included several short intervals of high-intensity walking interspersed with intervals of low-intensity walking, showed greater improvements in blood pressure, thigh muscle strength, and exercise capacity than did patients in the other groups.

The results provide further support for the adoption of an active lifestyle, Dr. James Levine, of the Mayo Clinic, Rochester, Minnesota, comments in an accompanying editorial. "The longer a person is active, the better, regardless of what form the activity takes."

"We are designed to walk all day long, and (this) article suggests that we should," Levine concludes.

(Reuters Health)

Labels: old age, walk, walking

Many people report feeling sad, alone and down after their camino experience. The initial return to daily life brought a certain excitement and an eagerness to share the experience with others. When the photos or slides are developed there is another wave of outpouring of camino excitement and for some the opportunity to give a talk to a church group or write an article for a magazine. But then slowly it begins to dawn on one that the camino is over. That carefree existence, where one's greatest pain was a foot blister and among one's greatest delights was photographing a snail crossing the road, is over.

And now we have to deal with all the usual problems and our loved ones soon tire of hearing our camino stories. And although we pilgrims console one another with the agreed-upon wisdom that the 'camino never ends it continues in daily life', deep down we know that something has ended. Feelings of loss, longing and emptiness begin to surface. Does this strike a chord with you? You could be suffering from the post-camino blues.

The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela touches something very primitive within us. Is it not amazing that so many different people have found meaning in this experience? Deeply religious people as well as those who are not at home in Christianity or in any other faith have had their lives transformed by walking the camino. That something primitive that is touched is a 'knowing' of the transcendent. There is something bigger than you and I, something bigger than us. Some will call this 'something bigger' God or Higher Power or Creator-Father or Nurturing-Mother or Great Spirit or Holy One.

In the Judeo-Christian tradition this 'knowing' is expressed beautifully in Psalm 63: "O God, you are my God, for you I long. For you my body pines, like a dry, weary land without water." When I first walked the camino these words came to mind often. As I walked the dry, weary land (or 'care-fully massaged the earth with my feet' as someone else put it!) I touched that place of longing and in that longing tasted the One who is the object of that longing.

"When I travelled, I saw many things; and I understand more than I can express." (Ecclesiasticus 34:11-12) There is no doubt that there is something sacred about the camino. Some will say that it goes back thousands of years to the pre-Christian era. The first recorded Christian pilgrimage to Santiago took place in 951. For more than a thousand years Christians have walked this route and covered the earth with their prayers. St. Francis of Assisi was one of the many who did so and he apparently did it barefoot! (That's really massaging the earth and being massaged in return!) Along the route there are many signs of the presence of Christian pilgrims these hundreds of years: churches with uplifting towers, monasteries, convents, hospitals. I was deeply moved by the awareness that I was part of one big pilgrimage, one big outpouring of that deep longing for God that is within all people. To arrive in Santiago is to experience that Oneness, one with God, with all people, with self. Is this not the goal all religious quest?

I believe that through these very inadequate words I am articulating what many pilgrims experience on the Camino. In some way we got in touch with our need for God and God stooped down to meet that need. Is it surprising then that when we come back home from the camino we should find everything else in life mundane and that all that one really wants to do is to save up enough money to walk the camino again?

What then is the remedy for the post-camino blues? The simple answer is to walk the camino again. But then, of course, there will be another bout of post-camino blues to deal with! Perhaps the answer lies in discovering that the transcendent God is also immanent. God is very near to you! He is in your heart! And we can make that pilgrimage at any time and at any place.

But what about seeing every new day as a pilgrimage? As we walk into each new day we are walking as into a foreign land; we are going beyond our experience. Live as a pilgrim, in the present moment, carrying only what you really need, leaving behind excess baggage, expecting nothing and grateful for everything, open to new experiences, aware of all that is! Then every road will be a camino and every stopping-place a refugio and those post-camino blues will give way to greens and reds and yellows!

Father Frank de Gouveia