"Reflections"

Clare and Rory Wilson cycled over 1500km in 2006 on the Camino Frances. Last year in September they returned to Santiago de Compostela to cycle the return journey.

Here is Clare's account:
We started our 2006 Camino from Juillac in France, a tiny village in Limousin just south of Limoges. My sister and her husband are renovating a very small house there. It seemed right to leave from a 'home' as per tradition. Our first stamp in our credential was 85 km further west at Perigueux.

We started our 2007 Return Journey (obviously) at Santiago de Compostela and ended at Pamplona. The two journeys were so similar and yet so different. Although our flights were booked back from Pamplona, there was a greater sense of cycling into the Unknown, a sense of listening to our own inner voices more. So much easier to access that inner voice of what is one's 'own pace' when cycling against the tide. The pressure to conform to the masses is so huge. What was remarkable too was the way we could feel the mood of the pilgrims change each night as we backtracked towards their start. Our first night out from Santiago was of course spent with pilgrims who would be completing their journey the next day or so and there were all the mixed feelings that go with that. As we travelled backwards we met those for whom the journey felt endless as they despaired of ever getting there, or others who were in a timelessness that pleased them deeply. The honeymoon was definitely over for some pilgrims we met at Burgos. In Pamplona there were those who were starting off the next day or had done so from Roncevalles a day or two before. A bitter/sweet juxtaposition of our feelings and theirs. Throughout the return journey, as cyclists, we were aware of being treated more like people rather than some lesser life form by the walking pilgrims. (I know that the walking pilgrims feel the same in reverse). It was as if by seeing that we were cycling the other way pilgrims realised we were 'serious' pilgrims after all and not just on some exercise jaunt or whatever catch-all category we had been assigned to. A memory remains of a grey haired man glancing at us as we approached each other along parallel pathways. He then suddenly registered that we were Returning Pilgrims and in the slowest and mostly gentlemanly of gestures he lifted his hat and bowed his head to us.

Two cyclists and four walkers
Rory Wilson (left), Clare (right) with fellow South African pilgrims, Hazel and Richard and Ron and Christine Coates

Labels: camino, cycle

During May and June 2007 Margi Biggs walked from St Jean Pied du Port to Santiago on her first Camino.

She writes: As a sedentary person, I was terrified of doing something so physically demanding. But something kept telling me to do the Camino. I wasn't very fit and it was really tough. At times we were walking through thick, sticky mud that curled into my shoes and at times it was freezing cold. But it was also incredibly beautiful. On the whole it taught me that I can do anything if I really want to. I trained as much as possible before I left. I walked as much as I could, and even signed up at the gym. The hard work paid off and I lost about 10kg. My body needs to walk now. I also don't feel the need to rush so much anymore. On the Camino all you have to do is walk, but you can't live on the Camino forever. It's a journey you take and the journey continues, and you bring what you can into your normal life. I enjoyed almost everything about the journey. My Camino was characterized by wonderful people, beautiful scenery and spiritual growth. I took my time and completed the 800kms in 48 days.

Margi braved the elements for the street children of South Africa, as well as for StreetSmart, a charity organization that raises funds for these children. NOW she has another idea which she has already put into action:

What did disturb me was the amount of litter left by other Pilgrims over the years. So I have decided to do something about it. I thought a Camino Spring Clean would be in order. What I plan is, to do a PR campaign to bring the problem to the minds of those who are still planning to walk. Then to find sponsors to make up bio-degradable bags, overprinted with a message in 8 languages inviting Pilgrims to fill the bag with litter along their way and to put the bag into the efficient Spanish garbage system. I am also hoping to find sponsors to print posters with an anti-litter message which could be displayed in Refugio's all along the route. I have the committed assistance on Gordon Bell who lives on the Camino near Villacha, who will use his car to deliver the material along the way during June. He will also receive any material we need to ship.

Then I will return to Spain to do a week of litter collection myself. I thought to start in Burgos. This will be useful not only to clean the Way but also for PR purposes to spread the word to those still heading to the Camino.

I am inviting members of the Confraternities from around the world to join me if they can, or to help in any way with the project.
As I see it we need the following:

• Press release writing skills
• Translation Skills
• Garbage Gloves
• Bag
• Posters to be printed

Transport for material from South Africa to Spain (if they are printed here, or from wherever).

Pilgrims to "walk the talk" in Spain 25 June to 02 July between Burgos and Leon.

If any members of the confraternity can help, please ask them to contact me on my personal email address: margi AT eqweb.co.za (sub @ for AT)

LATEST NEWS: Camino Clean-Up Project - first team is to clean the sector between Léon and Burgos during May/June 2008. This initiative has already developed into an international event.

Congratulations Margi!

Labels: camino, clean up, spring clean

OUR EXPERIENCES ON THE CAMINO:

by Marietjie Marais

About a year ago I was reading an article about the Camino and, thinking I would love to walk this pilgrimage, I received a phone call from my dear friend Sue. She commented that following the two hip operations her husband had recently had, they would most probably never be able to walk the Camino. Was this just coincidence, or was it meant to be? We decided it was the latter. After many letters, phone calls, planning and training the two of us finally left for Portugal early in September 2007. We chose the Portuguese Way because it is not as busy as the more popular French Camino, and it is also not such a long pilgrimage. This suited us as three weeks away from husbands, home and hearth was what we could allow ourselves.
Our flight took us via Madrid to Lisbon from where we travelled to Porto by train. Neither of us can speak Portuguese (or Spanish), except for the very basic phrases like good morning, please and thank you. It was my first experience of carrying a backpack and, although it weighed a mere seven kilograms, it took some getting used to. Thus, with lots of laughter and gesticulation, we reached our pensao in Porto by late afternoon - tired but happy that the adventure had started. For three days we explored the city, admired the beautiful azulejos (tiles) and got used to the heat. On the morning we started our pilgrimage we asked God to take care of us and with a song in our hearts we set off, following the yellow arrows …

The first day's walking was rather difficult - finding a walking pace that suited both, settling the backpacks comfortably and generally getting into the stride of things. We actually settled in so well that we missed the turn-off to Vilar do Pinheiro and walked and extra five or six kilometres! The first of many "Good Samaritans" appeared as if on order. A very helpful couple took under their wings, drove us back to Vilar and deposited us on the doorstep of the Residencial Santa Marinha.
The second day took us through beautiful scenic countryside, across lovely old stone bridges, past clear steams and cool fountains. In Rates we stayed in the pilgrim hostel for the first time and met up with pilgrims from all over the world. We felt like pros and by the third day we had a comfortable routine and could manage the day's walking quite easily. Each day had its own highlights and sometimes its own challenges, but God never failed us - He was there helping us along whenever the road became difficult or the heat became unbearable. He sent help when we got lost, and He never failed in providing a hot shower and a soft bed.

We met some very special people along the way. There were Gep and Gerda Maritz from Somerset West - such fun meeting fellow-South Africans and walking with them for half a day. Some of the pilgrims come and go and do not make a lasting impression, but sharing special moments in quiet churches, or walking together through woodland in the beauty of the early morning creates a very special bond with some of these friends. It was wonderful the way people helped each other, caring and sharing and generally looking out for other pilgrims.
Before we knew it we reached Santiago de Compostela. What a highlight that was - standing in the pilgrim office, receiving our certificates of completion, our Compostelas, and then entering the cathedral - a very emotional moment. We attended the pilgrim's mass with our special friends the next day. Listening to the heavenly music, sharing a blessing with friends and taking mass with fellow Christians was truly the highlight of these twelve days. We bade farewell too to our friends after the mass, while still inside the cathedral, promising to keep in touch ...

In "A pilgrim's guide to the Camino Portugués" the author, John Brierley, advises pilgrims, when they enter the cathedral in Santiago to "take time to just arrive". That is what we felt when we got home - we had to "take time to arrive". I think it is important to take time to rethink your experiences along the Camino, reread your pilgrim's guide, edit your photographs, or have your films developed and create a photo journal of your Camino. Tell someone special about your Camino and store away your memories safely before you tackle your daily routine and join the rat race again. People often ask me what it means to me to have walked the Camino. It's not that easy a question to answer, because it has different answers at different times. In a nutshell I would say that walking the Camino has taught me a lot about myself; it was a physical challenge that I'm proud to have done; it strengthened a wonderful friendship; it was emotionally and spiritually very enriching and it was a huge adventure.

Labels: camino, Portugues

by Sue and Marietjie

• Training is important - you should be able to comfortably walk at least 15-20 km with your pack before you leave
• Ordinary running shoes are not the best option - get yourself a good pair of outdoor shoes with multi-terrain soles and do your training with them - but be careful, boots may be too stiff and too heavy
• Food is readily available all along the way, but power snacks like nuts and raisins keep the energy levels up - so take these along
• Food and drink are very affordable and of good quality
• You don't have to carry your whole water supply for the day with you as there are lots of potable water on the route and even the smallest little café sells bottled water
• The pilgrims' hostels on this Camino are, as far as we could tell, all very good - clean, well-equipped and well looked after
• Hostels and/or other accommodation are available within easy "day-walk" distances
• The popular "Guide to the Camino Portugués" by John Brierley needs updating - some of the bus, train and metro timetables have changed and some have been discontinued - verify the information, especially if you are on a tight schedule (editor's note: check for John's latest updates on his website: www.caminoguides.com)
• Day temperatures were high (around 30°C) but evenings were mild, and we had no rain along the way when we walked in September 2007
• Go with an open mind and enjoy every minute

Labels: camino, Portugues