Walking the Camino Portugue's
OUR EXPERIENCES ON THE CAMINO:
by Marietjie Marais
About a year ago I was reading an article about the Camino and, thinking I would love to walk this pilgrimage, I received a phone call from my dear friend Sue. She commented that following the two hip operations her husband had recently had, they would most probably never be able to walk the Camino. Was this just coincidence, or was it meant to be? We decided it was the latter. After many letters, phone calls, planning and training the two of us finally left for Portugal early in September 2007. We chose the Portuguese Way because it is not as busy as the more popular French Camino, and it is also not such a long pilgrimage. This suited us as three weeks away from husbands, home and hearth was what we could allow ourselves.
Our flight took us via Madrid to Lisbon from where we travelled to Porto by train. Neither of us can speak Portuguese (or Spanish), except for the very basic phrases like good morning, please and thank you. It was my first experience of carrying a backpack and, although it weighed a mere seven kilograms, it took some getting used to. Thus, with lots of laughter and gesticulation, we reached our pensao in Porto by late afternoon - tired but happy that the adventure had started. For three days we explored the city, admired the beautiful azulejos (tiles) and got used to the heat. On the morning we started our pilgrimage we asked God to take care of us and with a song in our hearts we set off, following the yellow arrows …
The first day's walking was rather difficult - finding a walking pace that suited both, settling the backpacks comfortably and generally getting into the stride of things. We actually settled in so well that we missed the turn-off to Vilar do Pinheiro and walked and extra five or six kilometres! The first of many "Good Samaritans" appeared as if on order. A very helpful couple took under their wings, drove us back to Vilar and deposited us on the doorstep of the Residencial Santa Marinha.
The second day took us through beautiful scenic countryside, across lovely old stone bridges, past clear steams and cool fountains. In Rates we stayed in the pilgrim hostel for the first time and met up with pilgrims from all over the world. We felt like pros and by the third day we had a comfortable routine and could manage the day's walking quite easily. Each day had its own highlights and sometimes its own challenges, but God never failed us - He was there helping us along whenever the road became difficult or the heat became unbearable. He sent help when we got lost, and He never failed in providing a hot shower and a soft bed.
We met some very special people along the way. There were Gep and Gerda Maritz from Somerset West - such fun meeting fellow-South Africans and walking with them for half a day. Some of the pilgrims come and go and do not make a lasting impression, but sharing special moments in quiet churches, or walking together through woodland in the beauty of the early morning creates a very special bond with some of these friends. It was wonderful the way people helped each other, caring and sharing and generally looking out for other pilgrims.
Before we knew it we reached Santiago de Compostela. What a highlight that was - standing in the pilgrim office, receiving our certificates of completion, our Compostelas, and then entering the cathedral - a very emotional moment. We attended the pilgrim's mass with our special friends the next day. Listening to the heavenly music, sharing a blessing with friends and taking mass with fellow Christians was truly the highlight of these twelve days. We bade farewell too to our friends after the mass, while still inside the cathedral, promising to keep in touch ...
In "A pilgrim's guide to the Camino Portugués" the author, John Brierley, advises pilgrims, when they enter the cathedral in Santiago to "take time to just arrive". That is what we felt when we got home - we had to "take time to arrive". I think it is important to take time to rethink your experiences along the Camino, reread your pilgrim's guide, edit your photographs, or have your films developed and create a photo journal of your Camino. Tell someone special about your Camino and store away your memories safely before you tackle your daily routine and join the rat race again. People often ask me what it means to me to have walked the Camino. It's not that easy a question to answer, because it has different answers at different times. In a nutshell I would say that walking the Camino has taught me a lot about myself; it was a physical challenge that I'm proud to have done; it strengthened a wonderful friendship; it was emotionally and spiritually very enriching and it was a huge adventure.
