Saturday 25 October 2008

Newsletter 18, October 2008

Hola Pereginos e Peregrinas

In this, the final issue of 2008, we have two “journal” extracts from pilgrims who went on Camino earlier this year. First Catherine Martin and Jane McNally who cycled the Camino Frances from Burgos in May, then the inimitable Father Frank de Gouveia who walked the Northern Route or Ruta de la Costa. Not many have taken that route so I have included an extensive but edited version of his emails back home. It is written with such warmth and joy that I thought I must share as much of it as possible. It will be in two parts (part two in Feb 2009). I hope you enjoy it.

The Feast of St James Day was a rainy and wet event but warm with fellowship and sharing. In Cape Town parish priest Father John Baird told of how St James Church and the area got its name. About 200 years ago a Filipino ship was wrecked in False Bay. It had been returning to the Philippines from Spain and the seven sailors who survived built a little church in gratitude. They named it after their patron saint, Santiago, who was also the patron saint of Spain. They loved the bay in which they had found themselves and so decided to stay. Descendants of these seven still visit the church today.

You will also see photographs from Franklin and Pam Stern who used the garbage bags we now distribute with all new pilgrim credentials.

The scallop shell is used to mark the way to Santiago. In medieval times wearing a scallop or having one in your coat-of-arms marked you as a pilgrim. You will see some photographs of scallops I found here in Cape Town after the storms of August.

Please note the times and dates for the end of the year meetings and lunch.

Buen Camino!
Christine

ON CAMINO:

On the 24th May, Catherine Martin and Janet McNally started their cycling pilgrimage on the Camino Frances in Burgos.  These are a few edited extracts taken from emails they sent home.

31st May 2008:
We’ve completed about 250km of our journey. We spent last night in Leon and are now 30km away in a small village called Hospital de Orbigo (1329.8m). This is an uplifting experience: poppies, daisies, bluebells, and lavender – yellow, white, purple and blue spring flowers everywhere, birds chattering all day, shepherds herding their flock, grand cathedrals and ancient Romanesque churches. The down side is that we’ve squelched through kilometres of mud and have faced icy winds and serious downpours – not fun when you’re on a highway trying to figure out which way to turn. Tomorrow we attempt the Montes de Leon, the highest point of the Camino.  We are nervous about the weather conditions, having been warned not to attempt the pass if it‘s raining.  And it has rained nearly every day.

Monday 2nd June 2008
We left Orbigo in bleak conditions and wobbled up a couple of hills over fist-sized pebbles and through mud baths every 100 metres. After three hours of plodding, we arrived at the tiny village of San Justo de la Vega looking for cafe con leche as we were frozen. I then discovered that I had left my money belt under my pillow in Orbigo.  It contained my money, passport, flight itinerary, and two credit cards.  After having a fit, the bar owner assigned her son to drive me back to Orbigo where we were told that it had been sent ahead to Astorga. We trekked another 10 km to Astorga, where a very kind Felipe handed it to me. The driver refused to accept any money for his efforts. How blessed we are to experience these small miracles on the Camino.

The Montes de Leon are great big, menacing mountains, cold to freeze the blood. We left Rabanal in shrouds of mist, and immediately faced a steep ascent. We had to push the bikes. It was dead quiet and scary; we were alone on the road as the walkers’ trails are too difficult for bikers. We eventually reached the eerie village of Foncebadon and continued for an hour afraid that we would lose each other in the dense fog, and worried that we may miss the Cruz de Ferro. And then we noticed it on the right. As we entered the space I felt a pull to the mound of stones that pilgrims have left for centuries. I was immediately connected to all the pilgrims, past, present and future who had trodden and would continue to tread this path. I held my stone from home very tightly, warming it with the intentions of all those I know and love. I placed my stone next to Janet’s, and we had our picture taken. After 7 hours we made it into Ponferrada. Last night we had mass and chanting in Rabanal.  Tonight we sleep at a German-run Albergue in Ponferrada, 202.5 km from Santiago.

Friday 6th June
The last three days have been the most taxing. We’ve been on the bike for nine hours every day, pushing up mountain peaks and treading in mud for dozens of km. In Ruitelan we shared a hearty supper with the French, Italian, Australian, German and Swiss guests:  slept soundly in the attic and were woken up at 6 a.m. to the wafting sound of Schubert’s Ave Maria.  We ate breakfast to piped classical music. The climb to O Cebreiro, from 600m to 1350m in eight km, took us three hours and then a spin down the mountain where we virtually dropped at the door of the Benedictine Monastery in Samos. We did a total of 42 km that day, in nine hours.  We’ve had three punctures and are expert in appealing to the Catholic guilt of peregrinos to fix them ... Janet delegates while I look on helplessly.

After Samos on the way to Portomarin we’d heard a South African by the name of Gordon Bell had set up a pilgrim refuge.  At Vilacha we noticed a South African flag draped over a door. Next to it was a table containing a cool box full of drinks and a plate, with a note to place 1 Euro on the plate if we want a drink. There were instructions in various languages, all very polite. Then we came to the instructions in Afrikaans, which said: "Kak en betaal – dis die wet van Transvaal.  Ons sal jou bliksem as jy nie betaal nie.  Moenie a skollie wees nie!"

13th June 2008 (from Durban)
We travelled 528km altogether (of which we may have pushed bikes for 40 km or more). We got to Santiago on Sunday half an hour before the Pilgrims' mass. We took trains back to Madrid where we were refused on both bus and metro because our bikes were not boxed. We only had three hours to check-in time so Janet asked a taxi driver to take us and our bikes to the airport. At first he was indignant but using his business acumen he agreed to do it for 40 Euros (the trip is probably worth 10 Euros).

We all look for something different in a pilgrimage.  For me it's in the celebration of life and the appreciation of God. I have come away from the Camino with the understanding that we need to be thankful for both great love and great sorrow, because they contribute to the fullness of our lives.  When our thoughts around these states are positive and we take full responsibility for our actions, we live our life’s purpose and open ourselves to unlimited personal transformation.

Catherine Martin, June 2008

Rent-A-Pilgrim

Check out this interesting website:  www.rent-a-pilgrim.com

In medieval times, if you could not make a pilgrimage for some reason then you could get someone else to do the pilgrimage on your behalf. If a pilgrim went on pilgrimage for someone else it was called “peregrinatio pecuniae causa”. The substitute pilgrim would go on pilgrimage and would be paid for it.

Arising from this medieval idea, this organisation has created different offers that could be interesting for a modern pilgrim. It becomes a charity walk for a good cause. At the moment the pilgrims are collecting money for the renovation of the city church St Jakob in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Rent-a-Pilgrim channels donations and offers something that could perhaps make your decision for a donation easier.

Esprit Cards

"The pilgrim's hostel L'Esprit du Chemin has been in existence now for five years! We would like to celebrate this milestone with something special for your journey on the camino to Santiago de Compostela or to Cape Finistere, but also further, on the camino through life."

This is the opening of the set of "Esprit Cards" that we have put together and which we offer free of charge– through our website – to pilgrims who are interested in them. We have also added some suggestions as to printing, format and use of the cards. You will find the "Esprit cards" by clicking on the link by that name on the English homepage of our website. We would very much appreciate if you would inform the members of your Society and/or the visitors of your website about the "Esprit Cards ". It goes without saying that any reactions, suggestions or remarks on your side to these cards would be highly appreciated.

“L’Esprit du Chemin”, a hostel of, for and by pilgrims

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France  www.espritduchemin.org

Camino to Assisi

For lovers of the Camino de Santiago, or for those who just love to take long hikes, the Camino to Assisi in Italy,

is worth considering. The journey is approximately 300km/200 miles and takes about 11-13 days.  Instead of following yellow arrows on the Camino in Spain, this Camino has pilgrims following GREEN arrows and markings. Much of the website is in Italian, but there are lots of online translation tools to use (http://babelfish.yahoo.com), that quickly make the pages readable in English. www.camminodiassisi.it


Scallops found on Muizenberg beach

St James' Feast Day Report back:

From Denise Crain in Knysna in the Southern Cape:
I'm delighted to report that we had a wonderful turnout. The gathering was very informal ... laptops, albums, books spread out with bodies in the lounge, dining room, kitchen and on the lawn. Rene Mitchell (who arrived dressed in her Camino get-up with back-pack and walking stick) and Kim Alcock were able to chat to Val Wakey and Merle Dix-Peek and Pan & Anina van Tonder who have walked ... and cycled very recently. Twenty friends came through to Knysna from Oudtshoorn, George and Plettenberg Bay to share Camino experiences and mishaps over a bowl of 'sopa' and a glass of wine. There was a wonderful hum of voices and laughter and the general feeling was to gather together again next year. Denise Crain

From Bernard O’ Sullivan in Cape Town:
I would like to thank each and everyone for the contribution in making this a wonderful celebration for our Confraternity in Cape Town. The food and sharing was quite outstanding.  Denise read a letter from Gordon Bell at Vilacha. The parish priest Monsignor Fr John Baird [Jock] gave a talk about the history of the church. Derek arranged the Mini Walk and had to contend with the rain. Andrée shared her muddy recent Camino. It was lively and so descriptive. Palmira was so Real [royal] from the 'Spanish' heart as usual. The accent lends so much character to our Feast Day. Heinrich had the unusual exercise of tolling the bell! The Afrikaans reading for some pilgrims like Marius, Dorothy and Louisa and others was inclusive. Patricia [Pat] read with the panache of the Church reader she is! Olga collected donations at the door.  Margi gave an awareness talk of the 'dirty' Camino ré her Camino litter campaign. Morayne gave us music.
Thank you so much for the time and effort shown. Lastly, an Australian with his partner were walking by and, being a Catholic, he just popped in to have a look to see what was happening. Well, some of his friends in Sydney have walked already and this service has now given him the courage to say YES for next year.  Also his surname is Sullivan so that is the Holy Spirit moving him to come closer!
Saludos

Bernardus!  Sullivanus!


Jacob’s ladder – mini Camino
Cape Town gathering
St James Church

Scallops – signs of the way

I walked my first Camino alone in 2005. The scallop shells became meaningful. They pointed the way and I found my way alone across Spain for 800km without ever getting lost. The shell signified that I was on the right path. Soon after I returned I was walking on the beach at Hermanus and lying at my feet was a lovely grey scallop. I was astonished as I had never known these shells were found here. Soon I was spotting them quite often. Of course they were always there; my eyes had just been opened. I collected them whenever I saw one. They held the meaning of being on the right path. I walk most often at Muizenberg beach, down towards Strandfontein, with my two spotty dogs. This beach is not known for shells. We only ever see white mussels. After the terrible storms of 30 August which coincided with spring tide, Ron, my husband, and I went for a walk. The beach was littered with debris – seaweed, red bait, dead fish and birds. Then suddenly – the biggest scallop I’d ever seen! It was the size of my hand. I shouted to Ron – and he held up an even bigger one! We found nine that day. In the days to follow we found over forty! We really are on the right path!  

by Christine Coates

ROYAL SCALLOPS:   Scallops in Prince William’s Crest


Prince William’s Crest

Diana Spencer’s crest with three scallop shells

Prince William broke with tradition and added his mother's Spencer family logo to his crest. Prince William’s Knight of the Garter crest has been revealed for the first time – complete with a touching tribute to his late mother. For the first time in Royal history the identifying symbol on the crest has incorporated the mother’s family logo.

It is understood both William and Harry requested the simple symbol of a scallop shell to feature on both their crests and Coat of Arms. The scallop is the symbol for the Spencer family Coat of Arms and wasPrincess Diana’s as well. William’s crest, which features a gold lion stood on a crown, will now be mounted above his seat at St George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle.

It is thought the Spencer family adopted the scallop shell symbol as they were worn by pilgrims to the shrine of St James of compstella in Santiago during the 12th century.

The second-in-line to the throne was installed as a Knight of the Garter, the world’s oldest surviving order of chivalry. Three escallops were added to the ancient Despencer arms when they were adopted by the Spencer family, in the latter part of 16th century. The three scallop shells on the Spencer family’s Coat of Arms are in white but it is thought the shell on Prince William’s is red to make it stand out on the white band around the lion’s neck.

Father Frank de Gouveia did his fourth Camino: RUTA DEL NORTE OR DE LA COSTA

Here is an edited version of his emails home:

On my way: ZARAUTZ – Second day walking! Thursday, May 22, 2008 Arrived at Biarritz and walked to the station and caught the train to Irun.  There is a refugio at Irun where we only wanted a sello (stamp). Derek had made arrangements for us to stay at the youth hostel at Hondarribia. I was walking alone just after the lighthouse about 4 km from San Sebastian, where we stayed last night. It was a narrow path, much like the contour path on Table Mountain. I could hear someone coming up beside me. He said in Caminosh (the language used by pilgrims – a mixture of French, Spanish, English, etc and informal sign language), “Didn’t you walk the Camino in 2005?” I couldn’t see him well since he had a big floppy hat. He took it off and asked if I remembered the four French men and two Italians on the Aragonese Route. I recognised him. One of those little Camino miracles.  We caught up with all the news. Pierre, (who could speak English and we often went together to the Pilgrim Masses), well he is fine. Sadly Robert has had open-heart surgery and won’t be able to walk the Camino again. Robert had offered up his bed for me when I arrived late at the refugio in the village 4kms beyond Sarria. I am still deeply moved when I think of that act of kindness.  I am praying a psalm a day. Yesterday’s psalm was very fitting – Psalm 15(16): 

Preserve me God I take refuge in you ... I will bless the Lord who gives me counsel... I keep the Lord ever in my sight: since he is at my right hand, I shall stand firm.  And so my heart rejoices, my soul is glad; even my body shall rest in safety... You will show me the path of life, the fullness of joy in your presence, at your right hand happiness forever.

The Northern Route is so beautiful. It is a cross between the French Route and the Otter Trail. The actual walk is similar to the French Camino: pathways, little churches, forests, farmyard smells but to the right there is the beautiful sea, lighthouses, beaches. Do the Northern Route. It has the feel that the French Route had when I walked it in 2000 before it became so crowded. It is much more organised here than the guidebooks led us to believe. These past 2 days have been well way-marked with yellow arrows that one just can’t get lost (don’t know what the future holds).

Blisters in Bilbao Tuesday, May 27, 2008 (Day 7)

Well it had to happen! The Camino got off to a very good start and then came the crash! Have just completed 7 days’ walking and am in Bilbao, about 170km down with about 640 to go! Of the seven days rain on four. Days 3, 4 & 5 were particularly bad, rain in the morning, midday and afternoon. Two afternoons I concluded the day’s walking in thunder and lightning. The Camino is very wet and soggy so I have been slipping and sloshing my way along. Yesterday we had to walk on the carreterra (tarred road) and so I developed blisters on my right foot. Slows down the walking but hopefully shortens the time in Purgatory! But it is all part of the journey! Daniel had supper with us for the last time last night and so we had to say goodbye. It was good to meet up with him. Derek and I decided to stay in Bilbao today although we had only done three hours’ walking. We are staying in a very nice private pilgrims’ refuge for 10 euros (breakfast included). This morning I spent two hours in the Guggenheim museum and learned a little about Surrealism. In a way walking the Camino is a bit of a surrealistic experience – very little reason in it but a lot of spontaneity and freedom!
Today’s psalm is Psalm 145: 

It is the Lord who keeps faith forever,
who is just to those who are oppressed.
It is the Lord who who loves the just,
the Lord, who protects the stranger.

No Sun in Santoña!  Friday, May 30, 2008 (Day 10)
It has rained every day since Day 2 AND it has been a wonderful experience. Only problem is that it makes walking on the actual Camino difficult and so the last 2 days we have walked on the carretera. Today was heavy. Walked from Castro-Urdiales, through Laredo and then got a ferry across to Santona. The walk through Laredo included a 5 km walk on the beautiful beach! Santona has a youth albergue but it was full. So we are sleeping in tents on ground that is drenched after all the rain! There are six of us peregrinos, who have been together the past few days. Derek and myself, a young Swiss lady, Denise, who has just qualified as a yoga teacher, two young Austrians; Christian, who works with glass and Richard who makes knives! An older German, Martin, speaks no English. Derek will probably move on a bit faster. He will be branching off and going along the Via Primitiva, which is a lot more up and down. I’ve worked out that I could slow down and spend more time visiting churches, monasteries, etc. Irun to Santiago is about 800 km. For future walkers, the refugio at Probeña is really tops. It has 8 bars but no shop. Population: 100! Castro Urales has a new municipal albergue – no charge. Here at Santoña the charge is 8 euros. Well, in the rain it has been best to just go back to Psalm 22 (23):

Though I walk in the valley of death no evil will I fear; you are there with your crook and your staff, with these you give me comfort.

Still no Sun in Santander– and it is Sunday too! Sunday, June 01, 2008 (Day 12). Today I finally discovered that I am crazy. I’ve been suspecting it for a while but today it really clicked. I walked in the pouring rain for 3 hours from Guimes to Somo and then got the ferry across to Santander. But I’m not complaining. It was a wonderful experience. Being a Sunday there were no cars out and because it was raining and overcast everyone spent a few extra hours in bed. I had the beautiful fertile earth to myself. It is not for nothing that they call the area I have been walking Green Spain. I also discovered the true meaning of the pilgrim greeting: Buen Camino! I always thought of it as: have a good journey, may things work out for you, may it be an easy time, etc. Today it occurred to me that it means something much more than that. It is more like the Hebrew greeting Shalom. Whatever the road may bring, may you experience peace and harmony. So it is more about what it is going on inside of you that counts. Psalm 124: He lifts up the lowly from the dust, from the dungheap he raises the poor.  When I was in Egypt I learned about the dung-beetle – a symbol for the resurrection. Something to think about as I walk pass all these farmyard smells! For those following: Guimes is definitely a must visit Albergue. It is a beautiful place up on the hill. Here they provide meals for a donation. I am amazed at the generosity of the volunteers. There is still a lot of the old Camino spirit on the Northern Route! The albergue at Santander is also excellent, as is  the hospitalero. Apart from the psalms other well-know prayers take on a new meaning on the Camino. Here is Cardinal Newman’s prayer: May the Lord support us all the day long, till the shadows lengthen and the evening comes. And the busy world is hushed. And the fever of life is over and our work is done. Then in his mercy may he find us a safe lodging, a holy rest and peace at the last. Amen.

Larney in Llanes! Thursday, June 05, 2008 (Day 16). The sun came out on Monday! I had a wonderful walk from Santander to Polanco. Left the albergue with Martin, the German, but lost him as he followed the route described in the books. I was a bit behind and someone stopped me and told me that the Camino was cut off there, better to follow the Carreterra. I caught up at Polanco. It is a really tiny albergue, like two small train compartments. Martin and I were in one and Patricia, a girl from Colombia, in the other – 4 euros. Polanco is badly named because the albergue is not really in Polanco but on the main road past Polanco and closer to Barreda. Next morning I was up early and arrived in Santilla del Mar at about 9am. Everything was still closed. It is beautifully preserved village from the middle ages. But once you get into it you see that everything is expensive! I didn’t want to wait for an hour in that atmosphere for the church and museum to open. So I walked right through!

There were road works at Arroyo but one of the workers kindly put me on the right track for Oruna. Again a really beautiful walk, not so much sun but good walking weather. That night Patricia, Martin and I stayed at the Cistercian Monastery at Cobreces – 3 euros. A hospitable porter-monk let us in. There is a choice either to stay in the monastery or the albergue outside. I think inside is better. Sung Vespers at 6.45pm. There were 16 monks in choir, all I would guess over 60! The porter is 73. He took great pride in announcing this after Martin told him that he was 72.
Yesterday I decided to walk on from Martin and Patricia since their timetable is very different from mine. Stayed in a wonderful albergue at Serdio. I am so pleased that I walked the extra 7 km from San Vincent de la Barquera. It was a beautiful country walk, that green that feeds the soul! The hospitalera gave me a great welcome and a real towel!

Definitely the new No.1 on my list! There was a couple from the Netherlands there. They were to walk the Picos de Europa to Oviedo and then the Camino Primitivo. We went to supper at the bar/restaurant and had a lovely meal. When it came time to pay they wouldn’t let me give my share (no, they didn’t know I am a priest). 

For those using Walker’s Guide, I chose the E9 Route. Definitely the best choice. The sea is so beautiful and such rock formations! Got into Llanes at 6pm and decided to try the Youth Hostel. They would not accept the card I got in Cape Town. I would have to pay a registration fee and the 18 euros for the accommodation. I relapsed into unseemly unpilgrim-like behaviour. I lashed out in my best Portuguese about what a disgrace it was that a big city like Llanes was so unfriendly to pilgrims. She became a bit more sympathetic and suggested two cheap hotels. So here am I ensconced in this magnificent hotel, with a room all to myself, with a real towel, Really Larney in Llanes! And only 20 euros!

Well you should really thank me that I didn’t stop at the next village which is called Poo. Yes, that’s right, without the H!  Imagine being asked by a fellow pilgrim, where did you sleep last night? Just imagine all the questions! Just as well that I don’t actually come from that village! Where were you born? Where did you grow up? Enuff now. The psalms continue to provide food for the journey, especially in the mornings. It is just so beautiful to walk beneath those trees and for example, pray Psalm 120:


Pilgrims using our garbage bags

I lift up my eyes to the mountains, from where shall come my help?
My help shall come from the Lord who made heaven and earth.
May he never allow you to stumble! Let him sleep not your guard.
No, he sleeps not nor slumbers, Israel’s guard.
The Lord is your guard and your shade, at your right hand he stands.
By day the sun shall not smite you nor the moon in the night.
The Lord will guard you from evil, he will guard your soul.
the Lord will guard your going and coming both now and forever.

Off in Oviedo! Tuesday, June 10, 2008 (Day 21)
Stayed at the albergue here. Only 3 euros. I wanted to see Oviedo so decided to stop. This morning went to Lauds and Mass at the Cathedral at 9.30am, then the Camara Santa to see the holy relics. There is a 13th century image of San Salvador. Pilgrims were encouraged to come to Oviedo on their way to Santiago because as an admonition in the Cathedral states: Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y deja al Señor (Who goes to Santiago and not to the Saviour visits the creature and ignores the Lord). Saviour refers to is the image of the saviour at Oviedo.

For 2 days I have been walking the Camino Primitivo but tomorrow I go back to the Ruta la Costa at Aviles. If you have the map you will see that I did a bit of a skip and a jump in order to come to Oviedo. At Villaviciosa I had the choice of going on the coast or going inland. On Sunday I walked through Villiviciosa and arrived at the monastery at Valdedios, the stop for the night. Very friendly monks gave us a lovely tour of the church after Compline that night. This albergue is also on top of my list of places to stay. They only ask a donativo.

Covadonga is a story on its own. A most beautiful cave where Our Lady appeared to the Astorian king Pelayo in the 700s and told him to fight against the Moors. This was the beginning of the Reconquest of Spain. But let me retrace my steps a bit! That time in Llanes really brought out the worst in me! And so the next day everything went wrong! Was this God punishing me for my wrongdoing (depends on one’s image of God)? Well when I left Llanes I was planning to take photos of that village I spoke about. I missed the place altogether. Got a bit confused and before long found myself on the A8, the highway. Now unlike the N2 in Cape Town where we allow people and cows to wander freely, here no one is allowed on the highway. So what do I do? I suppose I could have turned back once I realized my mistake but instead I persevered. I saw a bridge ahead and thought that I could get off there but it was one of those bridges that you cannot access so I continued. Motorists hooted at me and it really was quite dangerous. And the psalm of the day? I prayed it over and over again as the traffic whizzed by and I hoped that I would get off before getting arrested!


good pilgrims with bags

Out of the depths I cry to you, O Lord, Lord hear my voice!
O let your ears be attentive to the voice of my pleading.
If you O Lord, should mark our guilt, Lord, who would survive?
But with you is found forgiveness: for this we revere you.
My soul is waiting for the Lord, I count on his word.
My soul is longing for the Lord more than watchman for daybreak.
(Let the watchman count on daybreak and Israel on the Lord.)
Because with the Lord there is mercy and fullness of redemption,
Israel indeed he will redeem from all its iniquity!  (Psalm 129)

Over and over I said those words and indeed my prayer was answered. A man stopped next to me and told me that I should be walking on the other road. I said I know but what do I do now?  He said go back or go forward. Then another stopped. He put on one of those emergency jacket things which all motorists seem to carry. He looked very official. What surprised me was that neither of them offered to lift me off the freeway! And then 300 meters from the turnoff, 2 Guarda Civil (police) in a car stopped. Again I just told my story. The driver was very sympathetic. He then told me to get into the back seat and then drove me off the freeway so that I could get to the right road! I had walked about 6 km on that road which meant that I missed the first two villages after Llanes. Which means I didn’t go to ...! For the next couple of days the Camino intercepted with the freeway and I was constantly reminded of my sin!  Sin, of course, in the biblical way of understanding it. Missing the mark. 
That indeed I had done! And so Psalm 50 would be most appropriate!

Have mercy on me, God, in your kindness.  In your compassion blot out my offence.
O wash me more and more from my guilt and cleanse me from my sin.
My offences truly I know them, my sin is always before me.
Against you, you alone, have I sinned; what is evil in your sight I have done.

Well, you can see that I am in the middle part of the journey. Always difficult. The initial excitement has worn off and one comes face to face with one’s limitations. What am I doing in this strange place?  An element of boredom can come in. Another day, another town. Sleeping in albergues with snoring fellow pilgrims, washing muddy socks. Seeing not only one’s own imperfections but also the imperfections of others. In this middle part of the journey it is best just to put your head down and with one foot in from of the other continue the journey!
Psalm 50 continues: A pure heart create for me, O God, put a steadfast spirit within me. Do not cast me away from your presence, nor deprive me of your holy spirit. Give me again the joy of your help; with a spirit of fervour sustain me.

After Llanes my next stop was Leces. Again put that on the top of my list of best albergues! It is 5kms on from Ribadesella. The rain in Spain stays and stays and stays!! So coming through the mud at about 6pm, I arrived at the refugio in the tiny village Sebrayo, no shop, no bar, no nothing and there sitting outside the albergue having supper were 3 Italians, Denise, the girl from Switzerland, and ... Derek. We hadn’t seen each other for a week and so it was quite a reunion. Unfortunately he had hurt his knee and this has slowed him up.

‘Aving a ‘Appy Birthday in Avilés. Wednesday, June 11, 2008. Thank you to all who sent birthday wishes. The Camino is a birthday thing for me. Of my last 9 birthdays, 4 were celebrated on the Camino!

Lovely walk from Oviedo today. I would definitely encourage anyone doing the Northern Route to do what we did. Stay at the beautifully quiet monastery at Valdediós and then on to Oviedo – a beautiful walled city. Outside the Cathedral there is a plan of the walk from Oviedo to Aviles – also in a book on the Northern Route at Tourism for only 1 euro. It is a way marked out of Oviedo. Steep walk and after about 3 hours (I’m a very slow walker!) I reached Posada, nearly halfway to Aviles. Then another steep walk following the arrows.  Got to top of the mountain and the arrows disappeared or rather I must have disappeared from the arrows. Faced with a decision. four roads to choose from. I had bought a compass last night at a Chinese shop to help with such eventuality, but ... 3 hours later I was again outside Bar el Cruz, the point where the Camino enters into Posada. There is a parable there. Nothing for it but to plod on, this time on the carratere.  It is 17 km to Aviles from Posada. All’s well that ends well. A wonderful refuge, only 3 euros, friendly hospitalero, free internet at the municipality cultural centre. It is 16 km to St. Estaban, where there is a youth hostel that accepts pilgrims or 36km to the next pilgrim albergue. I’ll decide tomorrow which way to go. And today’s psalm for the birthday?  What about Psalm 99?


Franklin and Pam on Camino Frances at about the same time

Cry out with joy to the Lord all the earth,
serve the Lord with gladness,
come before him singing for joy.  
Know that he the Lord is God; He made us, we belong to him,
we are his people the sheep of his flock!

Lucky in Luarca, Saturday, June 14, 2008
Some of you may not be aware my second name is Fortunato. It appears on my passport and also on my pilgrim’s credencial. As I was leaving San Vincent de B, I heard someone call out ‘Fortunato!’ It seemed strange as I haven’t been called that for many years. As a boy my father would call me that, I think when he was angry with me! My siblings, of course, took it up and would mockingly call out ‘Fruit nut!’

I am indeed fortunate. These last 2 days I have walked completely on my own, in another world. In Aviles on Wednesday night and then at San Estaban on Thursday I was with Holgar, and the French Canadian policeman. They stayed at Soto de Luina. I need to make up a little time so I decided on longer stages. Walker’s book doesn’t mention there is a youth hostel at San Estaban. Cost 13 euros. Then Santa Marina. Throw away all those lists of top places! Santa Marina beats them all! 12 euros for a double room with own bathroom! It was simply the best place I’ve stayed at on all four Caminos and the best meal I had ever had. Luarca is a beautiful old harbour town. Lovely old church – a wonderful statue of the risen Christ. Mass was at 8pm, the theme: put all Christians of all classes and conditions on Camino!

A sort of countdown now for the remaining days, with one day to spare: Sunday – La Caridade, then: Ribadeo, Villanova de Lourenza, Abadin, Vilalba, Miraz, Sobrado de los Monjes, Arzua, Monte del Gozo, Santiago. Weather is improving although rain is forecast for Sunday and Monday. A suggestion: Walker’s guide is excellent. Sometimes I have found that the Camino has not been as bad as he suggests. Certainly the mud is manageable. I think that boots would have been better than the New Balance shoes I have but I have survived. A lovely meditative psalm for today’s mood: Psalm 26

The Lord is my light and my help, whom shall I fear?
The Lord is the stronghold of my life, before whom shall I shrink?
There is one thing I ask of the Lord, for this I long,
to live in the house of the Lord, all the days of my life,
to savour the sweetness of the Lord, to behold his temple.
O Lord, hear my voice when I call, have mercy and answer.
Of you my heart has spoken, ´Seek his face.´

Yes, I have indeed been and am fortunate!   We give thee thanks ...

(to be continued…)

END OF YEAR MEETINGS

Cape Town:
Date:Sunday 7 December 2008. Arrive any time after 11h30
Address: 47 Hangklip St, Twin Palms, Strand, home of Mrs Georgy Keanly.
Phone:021-8533123
Please bring a plate of eats that can be shared as well as a plate, cutlery, glass and your drink. Also bring a chair and a sun hat or umbrella to picnic in the garden. There is no need to book.
How to get there:Approach from the N2 and take the Broadway Boulevard exit 43 and turn right if coming from Cape Town or left if coming from Somerset West and continue past the Golf Course, past Main Road and the railway line until you almost reach the end of Broadway and then turn right down Altena Road.  As you approach Strand Private Hospital on your right, turn left down Constantia and Hangklip will be the street immediately behind Altena.

Gauteng:
What:The CSJ is having a morning coffee & chat in November to share Camino experiences. Come and let us hear about your Camino, or if you haven't been, you can join in to find out more.
When:Sunday 23rd November 2008, 9 – 11am
Where: Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, Nestle Environmental Educational Centre
Cost: Coffee: R15, Gardens entrance is separate: pay at gate
Agenda:Please advise if we can list you for a ‘chat’ on the agenda (photo’s, memorabilia etc)
RSVP:
Sean Stephan, Sean.Stephan@fnb.co.za - 082 418 4488
Marita Nortje, mapano50@hotmail.com -072 507 5188

Camino Snippets:

  • The Pilgrims' Office, Santiago announced that they have received:

    71 pilgrims from South Africa during the month of June
    36 pilgrims from South Africa during the month of July
    12 pilgrims from South Africa during the month of August (from a total number of 29723 pilgrims)
  • Pilgrims that have qualified for the Compostela this year up to July 31, 2008 totalled 64,797. Of these, 37,584 were men and 27,213 women. 22,785 of the pilgrims were under 35 years of age; 34,844 were between 35 and 65 years old and 7,168 were over 65 years of age.
  • Another interesting bit of trivia – the average age of 75% of the SA woman pilgrim is 45.3 years. Seems like the older SA sisters are spreading their wings and going walk-about!

Camino Workshop 2009

The Confraternity of St James of SA will be hosting a workshop for all persons planning to walk the Camino de Santiago Compostela in Spain this year. We will give practical advice, show you what to pack and what not to pack, how to prepare, about your feet, and answer your questions. Pilgrims who have walked the Camino before, are welcome to attend and share their knowledge and advice. You can also get your Camino passport here and join the confraternity.

Please reserve your place so we can print a set of notes for you too!!

Venue:44 Beach Boulevard, Table View (a grey house on the beachfront next to Spectrum flats).
Date and time:Saturday morning 7th March 2009 from 10:00 for 10.30 to about 13:00 or longer.
Cost: R10 per person for tea, cookies and notes.
Reservations:phone Andrée 021 552 2525 or email her at andreelombard@absamail.co.za or Elmara 021 554 1786 or email her at elmara@telkomsa.net

VISAS:

From 5th December, Switzerland will join the Schengen States and visas will be required. Visas are granted for a maximum of 90 days – no exceptions – and although this won't affect people wanting to walk most of the Camino routes, it makes it difficult for those wanting to walk the Via Francigena from Canterbury to Rome – approx. 1900km.

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